By Barbara Barker
On these warm days in July old folks who are native to Hanover reminisce about swimming in the old swimming hole, instead of today’s back yard pool. The favorite spot for the boys in the Four Corners area was near the junction of the Third Herring Brook and the North River in the back part of Sylvester’s field off Washington St. Here, just below where the old Rainbow Bridge spanned the brook, the boys, out from under their elders sight, would jump in “au natural”.
Charlie Gleason remembered those happy days of his youth in Vermont when he defied his parents by taking a dip against parental rule of early swimming. When he reached home he was asked if he had been swimming. “No”, came the reply. “Then how come your shirt is on wrong side out?” Parents have always been wise.
The Third Herring Brook is the first tributary of the North River below the bridge which crossed on Washington St. at the Pembroke line. It forms the boundary line between Norwell and Hanover and winds through the woods, rising in Valley Swamp near Hingham. Alewives oringinally ascended the Third Herring Brook to Valley Swamp. Along the brooks many mills set up dams until the alewives could come up this brook no longer. The brook is narrow and rocky near Assinippi as it spills out of Jacob’s Pond. It winds through the woodlands to Mill St. and thence to East Street. Here iy begins to widen a bit, crosses Broadway, and widens more as passes through the flooded river plain.
It is in this area between Broadway and where it enters into the North River that Rainbow Bridge was constructed quite early, though no one knows its exact date. Its primary use was for the ship’s carpenters who made their way from Church Hill in South Scituate (Norwell) across the marshes and brook to the shipyards back of the Sylvester farm on the river. Likewise, it accomodated the Hanover men who worked in the Fox Hill Yard on the South Scituate side of the brook. From the picture one can see a wooden planked walkway above the level of the marsh leading to the bridge. (See map from Barry’s “History of Hanover” 1853 for the location of the brook, bridges, and yards)
Barry says that “during the palmy days of shipbuilding in Hanover, 1800 to 1808, five or six yards were in active operation and at least ten vessels were annually fitted for the sea….Every morning the carpenters might be seen crossing the pastures, or walking along the river bank, or over the tiny “Rainbow Bride’ to the place of their daily toil.” Imagine the scene at the Corners on payday ,Saturday night , when maybe 400 carpenters wanted to spend some of their money. Four Corners must have been a lively spot, not the sleepy little village of today.
How did Rainbow Bridge get its name? Proabably because of its graceful bowed shape, like a rainbow. It certainly was picturesque.
Then came the “Big Storm” of November 1898, sometimes called the “Portland Gale” The sea broke through the beach between Third Cliff and Fourth Cliff and made a new mouth for the North River direct to the open sea. Tides ran higher, the marshes were flooded, and ice flows in the winter did more damage. Rainbow Bridge gave way to the assault from the sea and ice. Other effects of the new mouth were great. Sand was washed in, and the river became shallower. It was harder to float a large ship down the river. This, coupled with the growing scarcity of large oak, finished the shipbuilding industry, already on the decline.
As a result of the “Big Storm” the salt water was pushed much higher up stream and caused higher tides and greater salinity in the water up as far as the falls in Hanover. The vegetation along the river changed. Thousands of trees, shrubs and plants died, because they could not adapt to the brackish water. New plants and vegetation took their place and began to grow, as a new era began.
I walked down through the Sylvester fields (with permission) on Sunday to view for myself this interesting piece of history. (These fields are still open and lined with the old stonewalls. They are one of Hanover’s wonderful unspoiled pastoral scenes thanks to the stewardship of Betsy Sylvester Robinson.) I tried to envision those “palmy days” of shipbuilding, the carpenters “walking along the fairy-like bridge of plank, worn by the tread of human feet for many years” (Barry), and the boys skinny dipping in the old swimming hole just below the bridge. I was surprised at the width of the brook at high tide, and the rocks which could be seen at low tide. Charlie Gleason said the bolts for the bridge were still visible in the old rocks which marked the location of Rainbow Bridge. I could not see them, but maybe I was not in the right spot. But as a walked out on the Gardner’s walkway across the marsh to the brook and looked toward the river nearby, I could not help but feel a sense of history.
That Curtis St. (now Main St.) was one of the earliest laid out roadways is evident by the houses still standing built in the early 1700′s, many of them by Curtises. It met the Drinkwater Road (Hanover St.) near the geographical center of the town, and that intersection became the governmental center of the town. Going south the land rises, and just beyond the big curve is a hill called Sullivan Hill by those around in the early 1900′s, and Nick Hill by those here in the 1800′s.
On the 1850 map you can find the dwelling place of R. Shimmon on the Country Road near Mill St. on the corner of Henry’s Lane. Henry’s Lane headed west to another little dwelling then unoccupied. Just when this old lane disappeared I do not know, but the name and approximate location has been resurrected in the Old Town Way/ Acorn Circle area.
Standing on the arched bridge that is the boundary between Hanover and Pembroke and looking down river I can imagine the shallow rocky place where James Luddam, in deference to Governor Winthrop’s position, carried him across the river on his back. In 1623 an earlier white man, named Phineas Pratt, made his way from Weymouth to Plymouth and probably followed many of the same paths. He described the night spent in the wilderness, probably in or near what is now Hanover,”The wolves began their howling …Was I in great distress…” Traveling along the early trails was certainly an adventure.
The picture on the Historical Society’s calendar for March shows some volunteer firemen from Four Corners standing proudly beside their trucks outside the Four Corners station, built in 1908 with private funds, and recently renovated. Fire was always a danger, and Hanover, as all small towns and large cities as well, tried to be prepared.Benjamin Franklin is credited with organizing the first fire department in America in Philadelphia, but actually other towns and cities had appointed Firewardens and had primitive pumpers, small wooden carts which carried a hand pumpto alert and protect their communities. All the villages in Hanover had informally organized their menfolk to work together in the event of the common enemy, fire. The alarm was usually a church bell, and this was true in Hanover as St. Andrews, the Congregational Church and the Baptist Church bells notified the residents of fire. A leather fire bucket was a prized possession and hung by the door of most early houses. A bucket brigade would be formed from a near-by brook or well. Some of the men had hand pumps, but we have no record of any early pumper wagons. Bucket brigades were not too effective, and even later chemical extinguishers usually could not contain a blaze. They could only hope to keep a fire from spreading.
As one enters the John Curtis Library and ponders its past and looks hopefully to an addition in the future, one considers the role of the citizen today and that of the public library. John Curtis made a great gift to the town and its people. In a letter to the selectmen of the town in1887 offering his collection of books he wrote ” Born and reared in this town, I enjoyed the advantages of its public schools in my boyhood, and have never ceased to feel an interest in the welfare of its people…. I desire to repay, in part my obligation for my early educational training… with a purpose to afford better opportunities for coming generations of boys and girls of my native town….”John Curtis was the fifth generation to hold the name of John Curtis. Born in 1817 in the house at 702 Main St. built by his great grandfather, he always considered Hanover his home. Jedediah Dwelley in a speech at the dedication of the Library in Curtis’ name said, “though he sought his life work in the city of Boston….we would make a great mistake if we belittle the period of his life spend on the farm—for here his character was established.” He attended the district school, was a bright pupil and impressed a young teacher who persuaded his parents to let their son go to Wesleyan Academy for one year. Returning he attended Hanover Academy, walking both ways as was the custom in those days. Upon leaving the Academy he sought his fortune in Boston, and obtained a contract with a clothing firm agreeing to stay with them until twenty one years of age for $50 a year and his board. In his twenty first year the firm helped him set up his own business and there in he made his fortune in the forty years that followed.